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Definition of oils

Essential Oil
A non -oily and highly fragrant Essence which is extracted from a plant by distillation and fast evaporates.
Infused Oil
A vegetable Oil which has been infused with the fragrance of an aromatic plant by mixing the two together and heating. The resulting Oil is delicately fragrant, very greasy and does not evaporate.
Aromatic Oil
A term which can indicate either or both of the above. Sometimes incorrectly used to describe a perfume Oil.
Aromatic Chemical
Essential Oils consist of aromatic chemicals. Most essential oils have between 50 and 500 different chemical constituents.
Base (Carrier) Oils
Base, or Carrier Oils are vegetable, nut or seed Oils, which has to be used to dilute the Essential Oil (s). These Oils themselves have therapeutic Properties and presents a good source of Nutrients and Energy.

Incense
Combinations of resins, fragrant woods and gums in solid or powdered forms which are burned to create an aromatic smoke.
Massage Oil
Massage Oil is a mix of Essential and Carrier Oil, which should be used for external purpose. Sometimes, only Carrier Oil might be used for a massage, because of skin nourishing and therapeutic qualities. Infused Oils also should be used for a Massage.
Milk Bath
A fragrant foam, liquid or powered, containing a derivative (including Essential Oil (s)) which provides emollients and moisturizers for the Skin when added to the Bath.
Fragrance
An attractive scent, from the Latin Fragrare (to smell).
Fragrance Oil
A combination of Essential oils with added chemicals and fixed Oils.
Perfume
Perfumes consist of a man-made mixture of aromatic chemicals and essential Oils. UPuntil the nineteenth century all perfumes were composed of natural aromatic Oils. Modern perfumes are almost synthetic and may contain uPto 300 different elements in its blend At the present time Natural pure perfumes you can find very rare and they contains no synthetic ingredients. Perfumes usually have an alcoholic base and uPto 30% concentration of Fragrances.
A toilet water
a light version of scent with a 4 to 8 % concentration of Fragrances and synthetic Essential Oils in an alcohol and distilled water base.
Cologne
Cologne contains a lower percentage of fragrance than a perfume or toilet water (2 to 5%) in an alcohol and distilled water base and often used as an after-bath splash.
Perfume Oil
The fragrant ingredients of Perfume prepared on the non-greasy oil base.
Pheromone
Aromatic scent secreted by animals and insects, influencing behavior of their own or different species.

Extraction of oils ?

Enfleurage This technique is very costly, and is rarely used today. It reached its peak in1860 and made the reputation of Grasse. It is a labor-intensive process that yields the highest quality of absolutes because it does not involve heat. Heat always alters the fragrance. It is used on delicate flowers that can not stand uPto the high heat, and that continue to release essential oils after they have been picked. Examples of these flowers are Jasmine, Violet, Tuberose and Rose.

Enfleurage goes back thousands of years to the ancient Egyptians. It works on the principle that fats absorb smells. Petals or other fragrant parts of a plant are steeped in fat or non-evaporating oil which will absorb their fragrance. A mixture of pork, lard and beef suet are smeared on to a glass plate in a wooden frame called a chassis. The flowers are placed on the fat and left to release their oils for several days. This process was repeated several times with fresh flower heads until the fat was totally absorbed with essential oil, the resultant substance being known as 'pomade', the oil was then retrieved from the fat by dissolving in an alcoholic solvent. This is mechanically mixed with alcohol for uPto one week, and is chilled to 68 degrees F.

The essential oils dissolve in the alcohol and the fat does not. The mixture is chilled and filtered several times to remove all the fat. The alcohol is then evaporated to leave the pure absolute. Sometimes enfleurage is now carried out with cloth soaked in olive oil or liquid paraffin, which is laid over the frames instead of fat, the resultant perfumed oil being then known as 'huile antique'.

Maceration is similar to enfleurage. Maceration is used to extract essential oils from animal ingredients, vanilla and iris. These materials are steeped into vats of oil until the scented parts dissolve. The oil may be heated to speed uPthe process. Maceration takes long periods of time (sometimes years).

Expression is a simple technique where the rinds of citrus fruits are cold pressed to extract their essential oils using rollers or sponges. There is no heat involved, leaving the oil to smell very close to the original plant. The ancient Egyptians gathered flowers in a cloth bag which was twisted until the oil dripped out. In Italy, lemon oil is also occasionally expressed by a process called ecuelle.

Distillation is the main method used for extracting essential oils. Distillation is based on the principal that when plant material is placed in boiling water, the essential oil in it will evaporate with the steam. Once the steam and oil have been condensed, the oil will separate from the water, and it can be collected. Plants are crushed to encourage them to release their oils. Plants are boiled in water, and the essential oils vaporize and rise uPwith the steam. The vapors are captured, and allowed to condense back into liquids. The essential oils are poured into Florentine flasks. Five to six tons of roses are needed to obtain one kilo of essential oil. Current methods also involve placing the plants on a screen and steam is passed through them.

Solvent Extraction is used for delicate flowers whose odors are damaged by the high heat needed to boil water. The oils are extracted using solvents which have lower boiling points than water. Various substances such as ether or high-grade petroleum, which evaporate rapidly, are used in modern perfumery to dissolve essential oils from fragrant plant and animal materials. The usual method involves placing the fragrant material on perforated metal plates in a container (the extractor); the solvent is passed over them and led into a still, where it evaporates, leaving a semi-solid mass known as concrete, which contains the essential oil together with stearoptene. The oil can then be separated from the stearoptene by extraction with alcohol in a 'batteuse', producing the substance called absolute, which is the purest and most concentrated form of essential oil known. Apart from these techniques there are various other operations such as rectification, fractional distillation, terpenes removal, decolourisation, etc., which improve and refine the numerous raw materials used for the blending and making of perfumes

 
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